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In the early 1990s, I was meandering through
a gift shop in Camden, Maine when a postcard caught my eye. The
image was that of a black and white bird gripping a small silver fish in his colorful beak. I had never seen such a bird before, and I
immediately flipped the card over to learn what it was, and why on earth Back then, there were few options for viewing Puffins, and only one that would put me up close and personal with these unique birds. Barna Norton, then in his seventies, operated a tour out of Jonesport. Since he was the only person who held landing permits for Machias Seal Island, the choice was simple.
The boat left the town pier early, around
6:30 in the morning so as to arrive on the island before the birds got
"hot feet" (his term) and left the rocky island to bob in the frigid
ocean, out of range of the blinds. After cruising aboard "The
Chief" for a little under two hours, we anchored off the island and
motored in on a small skiff which deposited us on the slick rocks at the
water's edge. As we were escorted toward the lighthouse, the Arctic Terns which shared the island with the Puffins and Razorbills, squawked and aggressively dove at our heads in defense of their nests in the tall grass between the rocky shore and the blinds from which we would photograph the birds. (I arrogantly lowered the stick, calling their bluff, only to quickly learn my lesson. Those beaks are sharp and they are willing to use them.)
When arriving on the island, the sky is
alive with birds-- Puffins, Razorbills and Terns. Many more are
perched upon the rocks, where they nest, and some terns will rest on
their nests in the grassy areas. Everyone was encouraged, as they
are today, to keep moving so as not to disturb these birds as they
protect their nests. There are two pair of grey plywood blinds amid the rocks. Each has multiple openings covered with sliding doors, and all of them offer equally amazing views of the birds. During those early visits, visitors would spend roughly 45 minutes in a blind before moving to another blind for another view for another 45 minutes. (In my most recent visit, we were each ushered to a blind for a single one-hour session, more than enough for me to shoot over 300 images.) The Puffins, make their nests amid the rocks and tend to a single egg (and then a single chick) hidden deep within the crevasses. You will not see a Puffin tending to its young. The closest you will get is the occasional image of a Puffin hopping from rock to rock, carrying small fish in its beak as it returns to the nest.
Barna Norton passed away in the autumn of 2004. He was a kind man and a true Yankee who loved these birds and enjoyed sharing the experience with visitors. Although I shared only two brief encounters and a handful of telephone conversations with him, I remember him fondly and will think of him every time I look at the images of these odd birds.
His son, John Norton, now leads the tours to
Machias Seal Island. (It is his wife, Holly, that you will
communicate with when you schedule your trip.) John, like his
father, is not a talkative guide. If you are looking for a
chatterbox who will point out every rock and bird along the way, this is
most definitely not the tour for you! John is, however, extremely
knowledgeable of the area and the animals you are likely to see along
the way (various birds, seals, and the occasional whale among them). Ask him a
question and he will be happy to answer you, but his narrative is limited
to a
By noon, The Chief returns to the town pier and the passengers depart. I have been to the island three times over the years, and to a person, everyone who participated in this tour came away satisfied that it was an experience that surpassed their expectations. The most common wish is that we could spend more time in the blinds. I, for one, would love to experience the island at dawn and at dusk, but as you will learn when you ask (everyone does), longer stays are not possible unless you are a Canadian naturalist assigned to tend to the island and its inhabitants. (If anyone with any clout with those who pull those strings happens to read this, I would love to spend a night on the island. It never hurts to ask one more time.)
How to schedule a trip to Machias Seal Island John Norton takes up to 10-to-12 people to Machias Seal Island each morning (pretty much 7 days a week, weather permitting) from Memorial Day to Labor Day. The Nortons maintain a web site at http://www.machiassealisland.com/ with instructions on scheduling a trip. (A word of advice: send a deposit. On the day I was hoping to go, the boat was apparently full. However, my deposit arrived a week in advance when others did not, and I received an email that I suddenly had a spot on the date I requested.) Clothing: Dress warm. Although it may be warm on the pier, the trip out can be chilly. Ask anyone who made the trip in shorts and a tee shirt. Wear long pants. Dress in layers: a tee shirt is fine, as long as you bring a sweatshirt or fleece, and a windbreaker. (You can always huddle in the heated cabin of the boat, but there is limited seating, so be prepared.) For shoes, I recommend a hiking boot or a good hiking shoe. Arriving and departing the island is accomplished by navigating over very slick rocks and wet grass. Food: Be sure to bring a snack and some water. There is none available on the boat or on the island. Since it will be a good 5-6 hours between departure from the pier and your return, plan your food and drink accordingly. (And, yes, there is a head on board The Chief. Someone always asks that, too.)
Camera Gear: Whatever your
preference, film or digital, a good zoom lens
Because the boat leaves early in the morning, my advice is to stay in Jonesport. There are a few Bed and Breakfast inns right in town, and there is a small campground out on the point across the harbor. I have not stayed at the Bed and Breakfasts so I cannot offer a recommendation. The campground is a small loop off Kelley Point Road, (turn right onto Kelley Point Road and the next right onto Campground Road-- just follow the shoreline clockwise and you can't miss it). I generally just show up and pitch my tent, and someone will come along to collect your fee. (I won't publish a fee here as it may change, but it is very affordable.) There is a single portable toilet, and there are some sites with electrical hookups, but those are often full, so you should make a reservation if you will need that. I would recommend checking with Holly Norton for details on lodging suggestions.
* With regard to Machias Seal Island being a part of New England, there remains some debate over that. Depending on which map you look at, the island is either considered Maine or Canadian territory. The Canadians operate the lighthouse on the island. Barna Norton always contested their claim to the island, believing that it was not only Maine territory, but that it was actually owned by his great grandfather. On his trips in the early 1990s, he passed around a petition asking the United States government to reclaim the island as US Territory, and he defiantly mounted a small American flag atop a red-and-white umbrella which he carried on the island to discourage the Terns (and, I suppose, the Canadians) from messing with him. |
